Frequently Asked Questions

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Do we get to toot our own horn a bit? Sure thing! Our background is in working with exotic animals (think "zoo" animals), not dogs. Since you can't just put a leash or harness on an exotic and hope that all goes well (in many cases you can't even touch the animal), this education meant that we had to approach training from a very different angle than your typical dog trainer. To train a wild animal you have to understand how they think and what motivates them. It's not about what you think they should do, but what they are naturally inclined to do. We bring this thought process to training dogs, leading us to aim to truly understand each individual dog, their needs, their motivations, and their personal abilities. We're able to bring understanding and, consequently, patience to each situation. To top it off, we pass this perspective on to you, the owner, so that you can have a healthy understanding of who your dog is as a species, breed, and individual.

Another trait that sets us apart is that we've actually trained nearly 3000 dogs. Most dog trainers conduct primarily private lessons or group classes. Though there is certainly validity to this training, training a dog yourself, hands on, and living with them 24/7 for nearly two weeks is very, very different. We're able to change up our approach based on how the dog is receiving the training in a moment, not a week later at your next lesson. We get to know your dog on a personal level that cannot be attained in 1-hour lessons, especially since the dogs are in our home with us, not out in a kennel facility. When we teach you how to keep working with your dog, we're showing you what we already know works for you dog, not what should work based on theory.

We are exclusively a board-and-train which you can read all about here. That is, we do not offer group classes or private lessons (aside from free follow-up lessons after completing our program). 

Our time is fully dedicated to the dogs in our care, their daily needs and training, continued support for our clients, and our three kids. We do not have other jobs. This is all that we do, and we gleefully devote our lives to it!

We typically start a new session every two weeks. View the schedule here.

We start a new session every two weeks. The first 2 days at the start (check-ins) and final 2 days at the end (checkouts) are set aside to allow individual appointments with every family. Regardless of which check-in and checkout days you choose - that is, whether your dog is here 12, 13, or 14 days - your dog will receive 12 days of training. Any days beyond 12 are just bonus play time.

This allows you to choose any combination of check-in and checkout days that work best for your schedule. The check-in entails a 1-hour consultation with a tour, and the checkout is a 2-hour lesson (3 hours with 2+ dogs) with the owner.

Why do we do it this way? When dogs come and go as a group, we're better able to build consistent social groups and affect social behavior. On a personal note, we're also able to schedule a week or two where we shut down operations to allow for dedicated family time. We do this because we work straight through weekends, holidays, and birthdays for months at a time! Even our "office closed" days involve time-consuming care and interaction with the dogs currently with us. It's a crazy schedule but it works! 

We can house and train up to 10 dogs. However, since we're a two-person team and meet with each client/family one-on-one, we only have time to work with 8 clients and their families in a session. So, if we sign up 8 dogs from 8 different families, then our schedule is full and the session is closed. However, we'll often have a family or two sign up more than one dog. This means we could have 9 or 10 dogs in those 8 appointments. We draw the line at 10 to keep our trainer-to-dog ratio low. The two of us, EJ and Heidi, each train only 4-5 dogs per session. We want every dog to get all the time they need!

These are some of the most common issues that we encounter! Anxiety can show itself as nervous behavior, fearfulness, skittishness, and a lack of confidence.

Training is a great way to help a dog overcome anxiety. These dogs need someone that is not afraid to take charge. Our focus is on establishing leadership by developing clear communication and structure. This not only equips you to get behavior under control, but helps the dog feel better too. Your dog needs to know that they don't have anything to worry about! By being a boss, you naturally become the caretaker too. It's a package deal! Though training doesn't necessarily rid your dog of all anxiety (it's often a personality trait too), most dogs do feel better when leadership and structure are in place. 

You'd be amazed how much calmer your dog can be knowing that the world no longer rests on their shoulders because their confident, strong boss is there to take care of them!

We're a husband and wife team that work together but each dog will learn their obedience commands from only one of us. This helps keeps learning consistent from day to day with these tasks and concepts so that your dog doesn't have to muddle through minor variances. So, your dog would be trained by either EJ or Heidi. The whole family chips in for house manners and general behavior. When you return for your checkout lesson, the one of us that taught your dog obedience commands will the trainer for your lesson.

Yes! The purpose of a board-and-train is partially to train your dog for you, but more importantly to establish a foundation of learning so the owner can maintain at home for the long term. We teach your dog to follow leadership and develop a mode of communication, along with all the awesome vocabulary. Then we give you hands-on practice using the personalized approach that works best for your dog. We'll empower you to handle whatever comes your way once you leave our doors. You'll continue practicing with your dog for less than an hour a week - only 10 minutes per day, just 5 days a week, to maintain the commands, plus simply enforce manners daily as needed. Your dog will know exactly what you're doing!

Since our approach is focused on helping you to be a trusted and respected leader for your dog, we see beautiful results with any type of dog! We work with canine psychology and equip you, the owner, to be successful without a trainer attached to your side. This makes our program ideal for puppies that simply need manners as well as challenging adults that need a fresh start. 

Yes, we do! You're welcome and encouraged to return for more one-on-one help whenever you need to. Follow-up lessons are at our location since we need to be available for the dogs currently in our care. Since many of our clients drive in from far off places, we're also capable of answering most questions via phone, text, and email. 

How can two people do unlimited follow-ups? Well...cuz we don't really have to do that many! We work very hard to set you and your dog up with a solid foundation that is both practical and conceptual so you can be prepared for most situations, even ones you haven't encountered yet, all on your own. You also receive a video of your trainer working with your dog and a detailed book to walk you through everything. 

We want you to feel comfortable reaching out to us if and when you need any additional help! We'll never judge you, only help you work through what you need.

Not usually! But you're always welcome to schedule one if you want to meet us first. Most dogs just need more guidance, structure, discipline, etc. and we evaluate and adjust our approach as your dog's training progresses and we get to them on a personal level. 

A consultation may be required based on a dog's advanced age, temperament, or special circumstances. If you're not sure, contact us with your questions.

Consultations are by appointment only. Contact us to schedule.

No, we do not require that your dog is neutered or spayed. Intact (meaning not fixed) females and males are in separate play groups. We usually socialize young puppies without worry but will separate them too if someone is interested in trying things out! We supervise all play time with all dogs 100%.

For some dogs, solo play time is best. All dogs are evaluated to make the safest decision.

We generally enroll ages 13 weeks to 7 years. The ideal age for training is around 4 or 5 months as this is a prime "sponge" age where a puppy readily accepts new concepts and is mature enough to take it all in. This is the best age to simply accept structure and leadership as a way of life! The next best age range is 6-9 months. The third best age is before 18 months and a dog between 18 months and 3 years is still very malleable. And, of course, it's never too late! Once a dog hits 3 years change gets harder, but there is always the ability to improve from wherever they are.

We accept most puppies as young as 13 weeks if they're current on their vaccination schedule, have had at least 2 parvo vaccinations after 7 weeks of age, and have had the bordetella (kennel cough) vaccine. A bordetella booster is recommended. We would also have you send us a video of your puppy moving around to ensure that they're ready developmentally.

If your dog is older than 7 years, we may make an exception. This would usually apply to new adoptees but we're happy to discuss your situation. The dog must be in good health and due to an increased chance of stress on older dogs, they cannot be obese (a little chunky is ok).

Click here or call (682) 283-1770.

You can view our full pricing details here.

We give a discount to return clients as well as families/friends that enroll more than one dog together in the same session. 

We'd love to offer a million discounts! However, we're a very small business (2 people!). Giving discounts to all the popular categories would mean that we'd have to raise our rates for everyone else. Oh no!

Unlike large companies, we don't have the ability to make up losses by taking in larger quantities. Please understand that we love and support all professions, armed forces, and ages. We just don't want to charge anyone a penny more than what's necessary! We truly aim to be affordable while at the same time supporting our small quota. See our full pricing info here. 

Oh, my goodness, yes!! Humane training does not alter your dog's personality nor break their spirit. Training isn't about beating your dog into submission, it's about establishing leadership and opening up communication. With dogs, leadership does require you to be firm, but this is natural. We are very fair and humane with our discipline, and even more generous with our praise! Though it's true that not all dogs love the training process (I mean, really, who likes being bossed around all of a sudden?), we take the extra steps to keep spirits up and show your dog that they are loved. Your dog will see that it's only the behavior that is disliked, not themselves. You'll find it to be a bonding experience, and everyone is happier in the end, even your dog!

The flip side of this is that training does not alter a dog's personality even if you want it to. Cocky dogs will stay cocky! Goofy dogs will stay goofy! Dominant dogs will maintain their dominant nature (just not dominant over you!). We'll help your dog be their personal best without changing who they are.

Nope. You have the be the one leading your dog once they return home.

Have you heard that board-and-trains don't work? Man, those people are missing out! We LOVE the service we offer and have come to dedicate ourselves to this after many years of private lessons because of the higher success rate. A board-and-train is just an avenue of educating your dog. Yes, you will still have to take the time to earn your dog's respect, but that's a lot easier with a dog that already knows everything. We can make sure that your dog learns efficiently and correctly, without confusion or user error along the way. 

It's also not true that dogs have to be trained in their home environment. To limit a dog's intelligence to a geographical location is greatly underestimating their minds. Your dog should listen to you, no matter where you are. Locations are great for practice, but you should have the relationship and skill to control your dog anywhere.

Yes, we stay on top of potty training with the dogs in our care, but you must maintain this at home.

We teach and maintain potty training during your dog's stay the same way that we would instruct you to do at home. We help difficult potty trainers get on track, and keep newly potty trained puppies from regressing. You would receive personalized instructions to follow at home that are designed to meet your dog's needs and your schedule. Potty training is a process that can take many months, so we'll be sure you know how to proceed on at home!

Understand that we cannot say your dog will never have another accident at home. We will work out a plan that fits your schedule helps your dog succeed, and you will need to continue this work at home. We'll make sure you know exactly what do! 

If we can safely handle your dog, then yes, we can train him. We take on most mild-to-moderate aggressive cases. We do no work with severe aggression or with any dog actively looking to cause injury or attack. We do not accept dogs that must where a muzzle. We require a consultation for potentially aggressive or reactive dogs. Please contact us with your details!

Are you concerned about your dog being near aggressive dogs? No worries! We do not attempt to socialize dogs with a history of dog aggression. We aim to help owners achieve on-leash control so that they can have peaceful walks and vet visits. These handling skills are critical for their peace and happiness as well as keeping your dog safe when you're out and about. Dogs with any possible risk receive private play time with a trainer and will not be in a social group.

*sniff* we're not enough for you?...  ;)  Just kidding! But seriously, there should be no need for advanced training! Advanced training is just a way of segmenting training into multiple classes or lessons. We don't do that here. You get it all the first time! What "advanced training" even means varies depending on who you talk to. Most people mean off-leash, so let's go with that.

You'll earn your dog's respect and faith by demonstrating your authority and confidence. So think about it...if your dog already understands the commands, and respects you, what's stopping them from doing it off-leash? Just keep practicing regularly at home, on-leash for a while to prevent mistakes, and your dog should evolve into off-leash training naturally. Bear in mind that not all dogs are geared for off-leash, especially if you don't start training as a puppy, but most can achieve at least some level of reliability around the home and yard.

We just ask that you don't do it too soon! Attempting off-leash before your dog is ready is the biggest killer of that goal. We will walk you through the steps, personalizing them based on your dog's personality and needs.

Not much! Only food, supplements and medication (if needed), current vaccination records, and flea control (or info on what your dog is on).

For more details read on...

#1: Your dog's food. We don't want any upset tummies! Dry food can be brought in its original bag or the container you use at home. Wet food can be brought in the original cans. No additional preparation is necessary. If your dog is on any fresh or cooked food, or food that requires preparation, please have it all cooked and prepared, ready to feed, in single-serving baggies - one baggie per meal. We have a fridge and freezer for dog food storage and we'll defrost a few days' worth at a time. We do not feed uncooked meats.

#2: Supplements or medication. No additional preparation is usually necessary, unless it's complicated. We do not charge a fee to administer supplements or medication. If your dog is on medication for a contagious disease, please contact us to reschedule the training for when he's well.

#3: Proof of current vaccinations. We require Bordetella with 1 year. Rabies and a Parvo/Distemper combo are required to be current within 3 years. Most vet receipts have the date last given or next due summarized at the bottom, which we love. We prefer that these are emailed or texted to us in advance.

#4: Flea control information. We need to know what product you're using. We have Frontline Plus available for $20 (or $15 each for 2+ dogs), but prefer they're on something before coming in. Any product acquired through a veterinarian is acceptable and some over-the-counter (OTC). The only OTC products we accept are Frontline, Advantage, Advantix, and Pet Armor. We do not accept flea collars or budget brands. Capstar is not acceptable since it kills fleas on a dog for immediate relief but only lasts a couple days. We are very firm on this policy, even if you know your dog doesn't have fleas. This is for every dog's safety, including yours.

#5: Optional. You're welcome to bring a disposable item from home that smells familiar for your dog. This is optional. We recommend old rags and t-shirts since these items are thrown out at the end of your dog's stay. They can get pretty stinky after being slept on for almost two weeks! You're welcome to bring most other items, just please not too much and nothing of sentimental or monetary value.

#6: Optional. For giant breeds: This refers to mastiffs, great danes, and similar large and boney body types. We have blankets for bedding but encourage giant breed owners to bring a thick bed or elevated cot to keep their sensitive joints more cushioned. This especially applies to great danes and mastiffs, but any dog owner is welcome to bring something if they want to. Please understand that we do our very best to keep things in good condition, but the dogs and the washing machine don't always cooperate. 

Nope! Treat-based training sounds great and can be a lot of fun, but unfortunately it puts all control in the dog's hands (paws?). This is not a good method for obedience training. With treats, your dog learns to check what you have before they listen. You also have no recourse if your dog cares more about what they want than the treats, or is too distracted. And it's not even natural! Have you ever seen an alpha dog bribing his pack members with cookies to follow him?

However, we do use a few treats for only the first 2-3 days. Treats have a place in training, but it should be temporary. They help the dog to like and trust us quickly and they enable us to easily identify when a dog understands what a word means. If they'll do it for a treat, then we know the command is understood. But once the dog knows the vocabulary, the treats disappear, before we develop a dependency. Some dogs always turn up their nose at treats, which is fine too. We don't need them!

Where treats are great is with "fun behaviors". Go ahead and use treats to get your dog to play dead or spin in a circle! We would never require these things, so it's fine if the dog chooses not to do it or only does it for a treat.

We use all four principles of Operant Conditioning. The one you always hear about, Positive Reinforcement, is only one and was never intended to be used alone. The other three are Negative Reinforcement, Positive Punishment, and Negative Punishment (which isn't as bad as it sounds - sending a child to their room is an example of Negative Punishment). Operant Conditioning isn't actually a method, rather it scientifically identifies how animals learn. There's a great behavioral psychology article to tell you more about it here.

If we had to name what we do, it would be what many trainers now call Balanced Dog Training. Balanced Dog Training is Operant Conditioning, it just sounds simpler and more modern! But we really like to say that we simply work with each individual dog, get to know them, find what makes them tick, and go from there! 

Yes! And we don't hide it from you. We love training collars! They're awesome! We excited about training collars! It's a simple tool that just works! Training collars enable you to correct your dog on a physical level in a humane way that they instinctively understand. They give you results, and are so much nicer than yelling at your dog and getting nowhere! They keep correction objective rather than emotional. You are simply telling your dog they're wrong, not getting mad. Isn't that great??

Despite the stigma attached to many of them, used correctly, no training collar should injure your dog. We mostly use the ugliest one of all, the prong collar. A high quality prong collar should have smooth movement that doesn't pinch your dog's skin and rounded tips that are not sharp or pokey. We give you a Herm Sprenger to take home since they're the best. Prong collars are effective at mimicking a corrective snap from another dog. There is almost no teaching involved - the dog just gets it because it's so natural. We teach you to pair the use of the collar with a verbal signal, like "No" or "Ah Ah". This enables you to eventually be able to simply say the word without having to use the collar through the process of associative learning (a major aspect of operant conditioning, see previous question). 

The best part is that a training collar further enables you to earn your dog's respect and keep it. You're establishing leadership in a way they understand. Dogs do not give each other treats to establish authority, or drag each other on leashes, or yell at each other. They growl, posture, and, when needed, bite. The bite is not hard enough to break skin, but rather just enough to say, "Hey, I mean business." This means that eye contact, tone of voice, body language, and cool confidence are all essential aspects of our training. 

Occasionally we'll come across a dog where it's evident that a prong collar is too intense. In this case we would use a martingale collar. A martingale is essentially a prong without "teeth." However we would need you to leave it up to us to choose what is best for your dog. A martingale on the wrong dog will require a lot of force to have any effect, which is not safe. Since a prong collar is about the feel of teeth, not force, they can be safely fitted and used on dogs as small as three pounds (they make tiny ones!). Little dogs function with the same psychology as big dogs. They are all canines on the inside!

We do not typically use electric collars (e-collars). We are not opposed to them, and actually think they're great, but they don't give you that personal feel that you get with a prong or martingale. They are also not a natural sensation, so some dogs don't handle them well. Forcing an e-collar on the wrong dog can actually be traumatizing. We do often recommend e-collars to clients under certain circumstances, if we think it's appropriate for the dog, but never as a replacement for a prong collar. 

We do not offer specific training for ESA or medical services. We can help you to have a well-mannered pup which some our of clients use as a starting point for their support dogs. There are no specific requirements for support dogs other than your dog is well-mannered in public and under your control. 

Service dogs, as protected by the ADA, are not the same as companion dogs or emotional support dogs (ESA). We do not offer any specific task or service training to meet ADA qualifications. However, if your dog can perform two tasks that you have taught or plan to teach, and you just need good behavior to qualify for ADA, we're happy to be of service to you.

It's important to understand that there is no official certification for companion or ESA dogs. Be leery of companies that promise this since it is not an ADA qualification and is unregulated. There is no paperwork to prove your dog is ADA qualified. Certificates that you can "qualify" for and purchase are false. Some people chose to get these anyway. They're easily purchased online and give your dog a more official look. Yet they're unofficial and a business owner can still refuse your dog entry. The closest thing to official you can get is a letter from your doctor.

Temperament plays a significant role in your dog's ability to be an emotional support dog, therapy dog, or an ADA qualified service dog. Though training can have some effect on a dog's genetically based temperament, it does not guarantee necessary changes. Not every dog is cut out for these roles.

Our training also helps many dogs meet the requirements to be certified as a therapy dog. Please refer to tdi-dog.org and petpartners.org for more info on therapy work. Many of our clients have successfully gone through these two organizations after training with us!